Joi deVivre: The spirit of the Sonia Rykiel brand, 40 years strong and Flourishing

Images courtesy of Sonia Rykiel

Joi deVivre: The spirit of the Sonia Rykiel brand, 40 years strong and Flourishing

Issue 31 Archives

“Time always tells who a true style icon is.” -Sonia Rykiel

Interview by Julia Dinardo

As the thunderous, final bow applause from the star-studded dinner party/fashion show of 500 guests in Saint-Cloud, France began to peter out, a new sound broke through the air. It was the voice of Nathalie Rykiel, daughter and house president of Sonia Rykiel, announcing to her mother: “A birthday without a surprise isn’t a birthday. You’ve been inspiring the world of fashion for 40 years; here’s your present. Bon anniversaire, Maman.” At that moment, the runway was once again bedecked with exuberant fashions; 30 additional looks marched down the runway, created not by Rykiel but by an array of designers who drew inspiration from the iconic brand in tribute to Sonia Rykiel’s anniversary. Some of the designs, like those by Maison Martin Margiela and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, were fantastical spoofs on Madame Rykiel’s signature flame-colored coiffure. Others, including a gown by Jean Paul Gaultier with oversized knitting needles sticking out of the bodice, paid direct homage to her famous knitwear. With the current political state of affairs in mind, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte created a sporty cream-and-navy design with “Obama” stitched across the chest. “We are so excited about Barack Obama, and we wanted to celebrate his vision with the great creative spirit and freedom of Sonia Rykiel,” the pair remarked exclusively to Clear.

The 40^th anniversary of the house that Madame Rykiel built rightfully elicits widespread homage. Paris’ Les Arts Decoratifs Museum is currently showing a retrospective on the designer entitled Sonia Rykiel, Exhibition, showcasing 200 of her creations organized by theme. And the newest generation of enterprising, young designers also feel Rykiel’s influence. According to Ashleigh Verrier, “Sonia Rykiel epitomizes Parisian whimsical taste. As a fashion designer myself, I admire her genius for perceiving not only what works in contemporary fashion, but also what lasts. Sonia is a true adventuress…always on the cutting edge of pushing fashion into uncharted territory, both in terms of construction techniques and color palette.”

The quintessential style icon, Rykiel has evolved her practical, signature knits into a full-blown fashion lifestyle brand that includes women’s wear, men’s wear, children’s wear, accessories, lingerie, fragrance and cosmetics. Her trailblazing, cultivated style and free spirit, fused with a core fashion philosophy, have withstood the test of time.

And it all started with Rykiel’s personal quest for a maternity dress during her pregnancy. With no formal design training, Rykiel began to the iconic pullover sweater and her own ready-to-wear collection and boutique in 1968. Subsequently, she earned the title “Queen of Knitwear” by Women’s Wear Daily (WWD). Relying on her instincts and disregarding convention when it came to garment construction, her signatures include knits, inside-out stitching, sans-hem and unlined garments, printed dresses and laid-back pantsuits. Add to that details such as lettering, rhinestones, lace, stripes and loads of black, and Rykiel style is born. Integral to her design philosophy is la démodé (un-fashion), an attitude characterized by, as Madame Rykiel succinctly defines it, “abandon[ing] a total look or trend, dressing to find your own sense of style and adapt[ing] the wardrobe accordingly.” And she would know. Her conceptual, trademark designs have managed to live through multiple revolutions of fashion over the years, consistently appearing modern and fresh.

Naturally, Rykiel once again worked her style trademarks into her current, 41^st collection, with a runway show reflecting the brand’s lively spirit. The energetic models skipped, winked, sashayed, frolicked and danced down a runway strewn with rose petals. If Sonia Rykiel can manage to put a genuine smile on a model’s face while on the runway, you know that Madame Rykiel is definitely something very special!

Madame Rykiel spoke with clear about her career and brand:

What did it feel like this past season to see the homage of looks by other designers presented before you?

Very touching that my peers, some of them dear friends, would create looks when they are busy designing their own collections!

Is there anything that still intimidates or worries you about the fashion industry? You seem untouchable, holding the ultimate secret to a successful career.

There is no secret. I still get nervous when presenting collections on runway. Should I have shown additional colors? Are the platform heels too crazy?

What is the biggest challenge you face, not being part of a big conglomerate of brands?

We don’t have the big marketing budgets like the big conglomerates do, but there is great freedom when you do not have to answer to investors and are able to make your own decisions.

In your terms, what makes a style icon?

Someone with a consistent style; one who remains their own person, regardless of changing trends. Time always tells who a true style icon is.

Across the board, who is your ultimate icon?

The woman who stands out of the crowd. She could be a mother, a teacher, a stylist, a celebrity…

You mentioned in a previous interview (WWD) that you are inspired by Jeff Koons. What is it about his work that draws you in?

I am inspired by many things I see: an exhibition, a painting, a hat in the street… As I had recently seen the Koons exhibition, I was indeed inspired by the very naive yet consistent shapes and the bright, very interesting colors. Just like any artist, I store every inspiring moment and use it in my work.

Do you see a void in fashion these days that that you would like to fill—a price point, a way of dressing, a demographic?

Especially now that places like H&M and Target are offering amazing choices that are affordable… I don’t feel the need to compete with the fast fashion chains. I don’t need to sell my clothes to every demographic in every store in every city in the world.

Is there any other sector or product that you would still really like to see branded as “Sonia Rykiel”? You’ve done so much already when it comes to covering the industry, from women’s wear to men’s and children’s wear, beauty and fragrance.

Not really. I’ve designed everything, but I prefer to focus on designing a lifestyle brand for women.

What is it about Sonia Rykiel as a brand that holds such esteem across multiple generations?

The look has been consistent since I started in 1968, yet still remains in style.

Is the magic still there for you when it comes to fashion/design?

Yes. I am in the studio every day, inspired by the things I hear and learn from my creative team!

Twenty-five years from now, what is the single most important thing you hope the brand is still accomplishing?

I hope that the brand continues to grow a loyal clientele. Selling to new generations of women is the highest compliment.